Adventures in Sushi: Matsuhisa

Since Big N and I don't brave the Westside traffic very often (not that we're complaining), when we do we like to make the most of it by trying a new restaurant. After our whirlwind shopping trip the other day, we decided to try Matsuhisa, the original restaurant that started the Nobu sensation (thanks in large part to Nobu Matsuhisa's partnership with Robert De Niro).

The restaurant itself lacks the flair of the trendy Nobu establishments and resembles your typical neighborhood sushi restaurant, except for a few autographed movie posters. Specials are written on a white board and the sushi chefs playfully flirt with customers at the bar. We decided to go for the tasting menu. (I know, another tasting menu. But I make the sacrifice for you dear readers, as it is the easiest way to try the best the restaurant has to offer so I can report back to you all). Matsuhisa offers 3 tasting menus: each consists of 7 courses, but the 3 price ranges dictate the quality of the fish you receive. We went big, natch.

Our meal started off with an eggroll topped with cavier in an artful martini glass, then proceeded quickly to a nicely presented four-dish appetizer consisting of toro tartare, salmon with dried miso, a japanese oyster, and kampachi with a spicy chili gelee. Next we were served a sushi salad with leeks instead of lettuce and single pieces of king crab, octopus, and other types of fish.

We moved into the hot dishes with a delicious lobster and enoki mushroom number in a soy based sauce. Next was the piece de resistance: kobe beef. Now I've had both kobe and wagyu before, at reputable establishments too that swear it's the real stuff from Japan, but I've never tasted anything like Matsuhisa's kobe. We were served 4 small slices of very very fatty tenderloin. The meat was marbled throughout and literally melted in my mouth. It was seared ever so slightly and served in on a sizzling clay plate with mushrooms and vegetables. I've never tasted anything like it. It was so rich I gave Big N the rest of mine after a few bites. After the kobe we had another plate of sushi consisting of eel, blue fin tuna, yellow tail, and a couple of others. Finally they sent out two desserts. The first was a trio of creme brulee: mocha, vanilla bean with black truffles, and coconut. The second was molten chocolate cake with ice cream and raspberries.

The entire meal was first class, no doubt. We left feeling full but not overstuffed. For the money though I must admit that I'd rather go big at Melisse or Providence, or my San Francisco favorite Gary Danko. At those restaurants for some reason the tasting menu feels more special because each dish is a work of art. Here, though the food was great and it displayed some talented knife work, for me it didn't quite live up to the price. If you go I recommend having a few choice pieces of sushi or the kobe. No need to do the tasting menu. But do try Nobu's home made beer, a refreshing and slightly tangy complement to the meal.